Why Autumn is Cornwall's Most Underrated Season

Summer gets all the attention in Cornwall. But Autumn is when the county really comes into its own; the crowds thin out and the sea is still warm enough to swim in. There’s plenty to see and explore from late September through November, and the clifftops around Scarlet are one of the better places to base yourself while you take it all in.

Cornwall's food calendar doesn't slow down after summer. The Truro Food Festival kicks off the season in late September, turning Lemon Quay into five days of street food stalls, chef demonstrations, and local cider and gin to taste. Falmouth Oyster Festival follows in early October, marking the start of the oyster dredging season.

At Scarlet, Head Chef Chris Whitmore's menus follow the seasons, which in autumn means slow-aged steaks, game and whatever the day's catch happens to be, alongside root vegetables and squash from the West Country. The restaurant's Sunday lunch is a long affair, the kind you're meant to take your time over with a glass of something from the sustainably minded wine list, and Mawgan Porth beach is a two-minute stroll away for after.

The greenery turns later in Cornwall, thanks to the mild coastal climate, so the reds and golds tend to hold on into November rather than dropping in October as they do further east. Inland, Lanhydrock and the Camel Trail woodlands are the obvious draws. But the north coast pairs the autumn light with the Atlantic, and that combination is hard to beat with a camera.

Scarlet's rooms and clifftop hot tubs face the sea, which means the best photography here doesn't require going anywhere. Low autumn sun over the water in the early morning or late afternoon turns the cliffs at Bedruthan Steps, a fifteen-minute walk north, into a scene that's beautiful and dramatic, as the stacks and coves are lit up, with none of the summer haze. Mawgan Porth beach empties once the school holidays end, so you'll often have long stretches of sand to yourself.

Beyond the big food festivals, autumn in Cornwall has a steady run of smaller events worth building a trip around. Farmers' markets pick up pace as harvest produce comes in, pumpkin patches open at farms like Trevaskis near Hayle and most towns run some version of a Halloween or Bonfire Night event through late October and into November.

Padstow and Newquay are both a short drive away if you want an evening amongst the bustle, and Scarlet's own seasonal breaks, including the midweek Scarlet Silent Nights stay, are timed for this kind of trip, with busy days out balanced against a hot tub and an early night back at the hotel.

Autumn is one of the best seasons on this coast for anyone who wants to take part in activities. The water's still warm from summer, the surf tends to pick up as the first Atlantic swells roll in, and Mawgan Porth and neighbouring Watergate Bay are both known for reliable breaks without the July crowds paddling into your line. Cold water swimming has its own following here too, and Scarlet runs a complimentary guided Daily Dip in its outdoor reed pool for hotel guests, which is a gentler wake-up than the sea.

For walkers, the South West Coast Path runs right past the hotel, and the stretch north toward Bedruthan Steps and Park Head is one of the more dramatic sections of the whole 630-mile route. Inland, the Camel Trail between Padstow and Wadebridge is flat, traffic-free and popular with cyclists who'd rather not tackle Cornwall's hillier lanes. After any of it, Scarlet's spa - sauna, steam room, indoor and outdoor pools - is included for every hotel guest, so there's somewhere to rest and recover.

Cornwall's heritage sites are better in autumn, mostly because you can walk around them at your own pace instead of queuing. The Lost Gardens of Heligan run a full autumn programme through October and November as the estate's woodland turns colour. St Michael's Mount, reachable by causeway at low tide, and Tintagel Castle on the north coast both lose most of their summer queues once half term passes, which makes the climb up to Tintagel's clifftop ruins considerably more pleasant.

Closer to the hotel, Bedruthan Steps itself is a National Trust site worth the short walk from Scarlet, and Padstow's harbour and Prideaux Place are both within easy reach for an afternoon. Scarlet works well as a base for it all; it's close enough to the coast path, the beaches and the county's heritage sites that you can spend the day exploring and still be back for a hot tub before dinner.

None of this needs perfect weather. Cornwall in autumn is changeable by nature; a sunny walk on the coast path one hour and rain rolling in off the Atlantic the next is part of the enjoyment of the outdoors; just remember to pack for it.

If you're weighing up when to come, late September and October tend to have the best balance. November trades some of that mild weather for near-total quiet, if solitude matters more to you than sunshine.

Either way, Scarlet's approach stays the same throughout Autumn. Rooms and clifftop hot tubs, a spa overlooking the Atlantic and a restaurant that knows how to get the best out of the season. Browse our autumn breaks to find the perfect fit, or get in touch, and we’d be happy to assist.